the shellshock

A land of wild and wonderful beaches

2007-04-15T10:52:00.000Z

During the first two weeks of March Tom and I took a well earned holiday to Tasmania. On this trip we were never far from the sea...starting with our mode of transport to get there. On a Friday night we, alongwith our trusty ute, boarded the Spirit of Tasmania II at Station Pier in Port Melbourne with some trepidation, knowing that Bass straight was probably the second most fierce stretch of water in the world (after North/South Island crossing of our nearest neightbour, New Zealand). We needn't have worried... the engine vibration was more prominent than the ocean swell on the balmy autumn night and was quietly soothing whist we drifted off to sleep in our cabin...only to be awoken fiercly at 6am to the sound of piped music and the wakeup call that we would arrive at Devonport in 45 minutes!

From Devonport we drove straight on (after a couple of hot cross buns and a cup of tea from the bakery) to our planned first night's accommodation... the sand dunes of Mt William NP on the north-east tip of Tassie. We had packed all of the camping gear in the back of the ute (well we hoped so) and prepared with our National Parks Pass (conveniently available for sale on the Ferry - $20 per day!!! or $50 for 2 months) we set up camp at Stumpy's Bay #4. It was a pretty site with a lagoon and a number of persistent wallabies (and also a Tiger snake as we later found). Our main pastime at this campsite was the long beach walks on the fine white sand. The beach was stunning with it's orange lichen crusted rocks, white sand and hardly a soul on it. There must have only been about 15 people in all of the 4 camping grounds combined. Most were in campervans, but we stuck with our trusty budget dome tent. We also climbed the 218m peak of Mount William - despite not being amonst the highest peaks even of Tasmania, still had fine views for a full 360 degrees.

After a few days at Mount William we moved on to the next stunning white sand beach... that of Bay of Fires, north of St Helens. Allegedly this is the second best wild beach in the world (I forget what is the best... probably Whitehaven in the Whitsunday islands of Queensland). Bay of Fires is actually less "wild" than Mount William due to the number of people staying there, and to be honest this was probably it's only detractor. It was a fine beach, though I did prefer Mt William due to it's isolation... and probably because it was the first we went to and had the best weather.

From Bay of Fires we hit the tourist trail proper and pitched our tent at Coles Bay Caravan park. Since we had been camping for a few nights in basic campsites (read "basic" as a pit toilet and no shower) the relative luxury of the 4* caravan park was unparallelled and that first shower in the amenities block was amazing. The facilities of the caravan park were also good, having a kitchen complete with toaster, kettle & sink for campers plus roof for those escaping rainy nights (of which luckily the only one we had was at Coles Bay).

Coles Bay is best known as a base for exploring the famous Freycinet Peninsula and the exquisite view to Wineglass Bay. We did the Wineglass Bay/Hazards Beach circuit which was great, though to be honest, no more stunning than the beaches we had already been to. One of the highlights of our stay in Tassie was the gourmet food experience, and Coles Bay was no exception. Just down the road from the caravan park was a mussel and oyster farm. Now I am not a fan of oysters, however have been known to consume a mussel or two with a Belgian beer. I had heard that it was pretty simple to cook mussels in a white wine sauce, so we searched the Coles Bay for appropriate ingredients... white wine from the pub at the entrance to the caravan park, garlic and cream from the general store along with our kilo of fresh mussels harvested that morning. First problem was that they hadn't had time to clean the mussels, so they thew a few more in at no extra charge. So that evening after darkness had already descended one could have caught Tom swearing at a few mussels as he was trying to get the gunge off them in our camp washing up bucket. But eventually we successed and a fine meal of mussels in white wine cooked in the billy, plus potato chips cooked on the barbie... and of course another bottle of wine was consumed. A great memory!

After Coles Bay we were going to stay in Hobart for the weekend, however on realising that not only was it a Friday night, but that also was a long weekend and that we had no accommodation, realised that it might be a bit tough to find somewhere to stay. Whilst we were happy to camp in the bush, I'm not to keen in the city, and we were hoping to stay in a B&B somewhere close in. So instead we booked our B&B for a few days later and in the meantime took a detour.

Our detour took us down South west of Hobart, through the Huon valley and down to the southern-most point of Tasmania - the South Cape. After a couple of hours drive it took us about 10 minutes to get from one site of Hobart to the other and we continued on, filling up with supplies at Huonville. Our camp destination was Cockle Creek, the end of the most southerly road in Australia. There was free camping by the road, and also in the National Park (provided you had a NP pass). There were a few people down there - not surprising as the weather was forecast to be good, but we got there early enough to get a good campsite in the NP.

Cockle Creek was beautiful. The weather was more than good. There was clear blue sky, no wind, and Recherche Bay had clear still water. Only downside was the wasps and bumble bees. We walked along the bay learning about the early whaling history of the area and drinking in the sheer beauty. We also kept up our exercise regime by taking the 4hour return walk to South Cape beach. Along the way we met many surfers carrying their boards across. Many of them were camping out there. We were tempted to continue a bit more of the south cape path, but after 20 minutes of bush bashing, called it quits and headed back to Cockle Creek. I think the rest of the South West Cape trail may not be so well maintained as this first bit! It was a warm day, so once back at Cockle Creek I though a swim to freshen up might be in order. If freshening up was the only objective, then it was met with no questions, however the swim was not exactly relaxing... the water was freeeeeeezing, despite the 25 degrees air temperature, and I barely laster 10 seconds under water.

After a couple of nights in Cockle Creek we headed back to Hobart, on the way freshening up at the Hastings Thermal Baths, naturally heated (but only to 28 deg C) from a spring. We wanted to appear at our best before arriving at the B&B in the big city. Hobart was a pretty quiet time. The weather was not so good, so bringing forward our trip to Cockle Creek had been quite fortuitous. The main highlight of our stay was the side trip we took to Bruny Island. We took one of the charter voyages down the east cost of Bruny Island. Aim was to get to a small island seal colony to the south of Bruny Island, but unfortunately the weather was against us. with 30-40 knot winds and 3-4m swell, conditions were not safe for us to go beyond the meeting of the Tasman Sea and Southern Ocean. We did see plenty on the way though with a few albatross and Shearwaters galore. We also sped through "the monument" which was slightly hair raising (see photos)! The evening treat was dinner at Peppermint Bay, overlooking a splendid sunset over Bruny Island. Food was pretty good too!

From Hobart we travelled straight up through the centre of Tasmania, past the great lakes (Tassie is in drought too... there is a lot of water missing from these lakes) up to Devonport. A nice lunch at the Deloraine Deli, and sampling some local gourmet delights at the Honey Farm, Ashgrove Cheeses and D'Anver's Chocolates filled in the time before our ferry back to Melbourne.

Click here to see our full photo album.

Run for the Kids

2007-04-01T12:24:00.000Z

Today Tom and I ran the longest race of our lives... 15.2km on Melbourne's scenic Run for the Kids fundraising race for the Children's Hospital. We joined 26000 other runners and walkers on the route. Not sure what place we came in at yet. The winner finnished in about 45 minutes and my humble attempt was 1 hour 50 minutes. Tom sped away from me at the 3km mark and finished about 15-20 minutes ahead of me. Am pretty stuffed now and sure I am going to be stiff tomorrow.

See me cross the finish line on the attached link. I am in the middle of the photo with green shirt and dark 3/4 length tights.

Happy New Year

2007-01-02T10:51:00.000Z

Happy New Year to you all! As you are probably aware, it's a long time since I've posted any news on this blog... perhaps my New Year's resolution should be to keep this up to date. Anyway, I've made an attempt to bring it up to date - see the attached link.

Merry Christmas

2005-12-28T21:36:00.000Z

This year we went to my auntie's place in Abergavenny for Christmas. As per usual Christmas get togethers, eating, drinking watching some movies and a short walk was the order of the day. A great time was had by all!

the days after...

2005-12-11T17:34:00.000Z

Since Greg and Andrea weren't going away on honeymoon straight after the wedding, we stayed on for the rest of the weekend and took in some of the Munich experiences like a walk to Andechs (Cloister brewery), not to mention sampling their produce!

We also visited the Franz Marc exhibition, lunched at Lowenbrau and samples Feuerzeuganbowle at the Christkindlmarkt.

a bavarian wedding

2005-12-10T16:05:00.000Z

Yesterday my younger brother Greg got married. It was a case of Australian guy meets Canadian girl in Munich. So what do they do? They have a Bavarian wedding...to be followed by an Australian party in February and Canadian party in June.

The wedding was Fab... a little cold but a great party! Also was a small diversion for the tourists in the Christmas markets... what could one expect with Bavarian dress and paparazzi on their tail!

Click to see more photos of the day, and Zee Wedding site for more background and other people's photos.

the ethiopian adventure

2005-11-24T16:00:00.000Z

Today I've just arrived back from my 17 day Ethiopia trip. It may take be a little while to get my photos online...please come back soon to check!

And finally, more than one year later, here they are!!
http://myethiopianadventure.blogspot.com/

stile styles

2005-09-27T22:17:00.000Z

stile, n. a step, or set of steps, for climbing over a wall or fence.

Wherever we walk in UK, inevitably we have to cross stiles on our route, and Pembrokshire was no exception! On this trip we came across many different styles which Tom models in the pictures below.

The simple stile. One step, a couple of rails, and a post to hold on to.

The Dog Stile - a simple stile, with the added feature of a dog gate that is operated by lifting the plank as shown by Tom.

The Stone Stile - we didn't see many of this type in Pembrokshire. In this stile, the steps are build into the wall of stone

The Useful Stile - stiles are ever useful as a seat when the ground is damp or for when one needs to adjust their boots.

The Lookout Stile - useful for when the bushes impede one's view.

The Kissing Gate - this is not really a stile, but is a closely related cousin and serves the same purpose of a stile.

The gate - again not a stile, but this conventional method of accessing the next field (albeit with a fancy lever closure) was also common sight in Pembrokeshire.

Fishguard to Strumble Head

2005-09-27T21:33:00.000Z

This morning we packed our bags and left the hospitality of Mrs Evans B&B. We were moving on further south to tackle the sections of Coast Path between Fishguard and St Davids. After the heavy rain of the night before, today we started with beautifully sunny skies. It would be a pleasure to walk, though this time we were burdened by our packs. Despite the seemingly ruthless packing process, they were still a bit heavy!

The first leg of today's journey was by bus, covering the ground that we already walked yesterday down to Fishguard. From there we joined the coast path and huffed and puffed up the hill at Goodwick. It was slower today, but enjoyable because of the the lovely day. The start of the walk was quite easy and soon we were back to the spectacular views of the coves and headlands both behind us and ahead. Soon we can across more seals (approximately 20 on the first beach) and then more... and more... and more. It was amazing, so we stopped quite a lot. Most of the time we were well above the beaches on top of treacherous cliffs, but at one point near Strumble Head the trail came down very low to the beach, and had we wanted to, we could have walked on to the beach and seen the seals up close. We left them be though, not wanting to disturb the pups any more than we were from a distance.

At Strumble Head we called it quits for the day's walking... the feet felt like they were being ground into the dirt with the weight of our packs. So we passed the time waiting for the "Strumble Shuttle" bus by sitting in the bird hide (an old military fortification) and watched through the binoculars the porpoises jumping in the waves.

The closest B&Bs we could find for the night were at Trefin, since unfortunately the Pwll Deri youth hostel is closed on Tuesday nights. But no matter, the Strumble Shuttle took us there and Pen yr Olmarch was a lovely B&B... quite luxurious for us grubby trekkers!

Newport to Fishguard

2005-09-26T19:04:00.000Z

Monday morning and second day on the trail... feeling every muscle in my body after the previous day's 24 km. Task for today was a 20km walk from Newport to Fishguard via Dinas Island. The walk started off with us exploring the other side of Newport which we had not previously seen. It's a very nice town, and some cute little cottages available for weekly rent... must keep them in mind for the future.

As we passed through the edge of the village we saw fishermen actually catching fish (and releasing them), and beyond that a surfer who was struggling because the waves were'nt moving fast enough! The water was quite calm, and the sky was overcast and dull, though it was not cold. Just then beyond the surfer Tom spied a black fin... was it a shark or a dolphin? It proved to be not one, but at least 3 bottle nosed dolphins which frolicked about for about 5 minutes and then moved on to who knows where, not to be seen (by us anyway) for the remainder of the day. This was the highlight of the day!

We coped with the walk today, but it seemed more difficult as we were still suffering a little from the day before. Also it was windy... very windy, and by the end of the day we really needed to get indoors out of the weather. After reaching lower Fishguard we had a quick refreshement at The Ship whilst waiting for our bus, and then caught the bus back to Newport.

That evening it rained, and rained, and rained. Mrs Evans kindly dropped us down to the town so that we could get some dinner. Tonight was a very good choice of "authentic" welsh Indian food at the Royal Oak. We were well satisfied!

Poppit Sands to Newport

2005-09-25T19:57:00.000Z

Today, the first day on the trail, we were keen with anticipation. It had rained heavily in the night, but in the morning it started off sunny... though with the sort of clouds that lloked like they would produce rain at any moment. Mrs Evans, our very obliging host at the B&B, drove us up to Poppit Sands, the start of the trail, about a 20 minute drive away. What have we got ourselves in for, I'm thinking in the car. The drive up the coast was quite a long way. Would we make it back by nightfall?

Today was supposed to be the hardest day on the trail. If we could make the journey back to Newport today, we should have no problems with the remainder of the trip... or that was the theory anyway. The weather was quite fine when we reached Poppit Sands, though the threat of rain remained. With the wind blowing strongly though, the weather, neither good nor bad, would not stick around for long.

The walk started off pretty easily. Gentle uphills on a small farm road which in turn became a footpath and passed through the fields above the farm and camp site up to Cemaes Head. Keen to make progress, we didn't hang around at the head for long, and kept along the trail. Stunning cliffs more than a hundred metres high were to our right as we made our way along the narrow path. The wind was off the ocean, so whilst there were some strong gusts, there was not much chance of being blown over the edge. Around the next bend we came to an amazing sight - way down below on the gravelly shores of Traeth y Rhydyn beach was a family of seals with several young fluffy white pups - they were difficult to see, but binoculars proved we were not imagining it. But this was not the only wildlife we saw... soon we cam across mushrooms larger than dinner plates and a toad that was seemingly unthreatened by our presence.

Shortly afterwards a rain shower christened the new gortex jacket, but it didn't last long and soon we were on our way down to Ceibwr Bay, the last road exit (and get-out option) for the day's walk. Beyond it we would have to continue all the way to Newport Sands. Which is of course what we did!

No sooner had we started off in the direction of the Witches Cauldron, a spectacular blowhole, but the second rain shower of our walk cam in. Out came the rain jackets for their second airing. This time the rain was quite heavy, so Tom started looking for shelter. There's not much of that to be found on the coast path and the best he could find was under a small footbridge crossing a stream. After 5 minutes sheltering (slightly reluctantly, not wanting to be the next victim of a flash flood and be washed over the edge of the cliff path) I emerged to check the weather and already the sun was starting to come out, so again we were on our way. This part of the walk was lovely. Lots of ups and downs, but not too difficult.

Part way along the final section of the train we came upon some tiny woolly ponies that were sitting amongst the bracken. Making good time we reached the headland above Newport Sands when Tom spied a huge seal wallowing in a pool at the base of the cliff - amazing! I hadn't seen a seal that big before! Newport Sands proved to be a lovely beach - wide and open, sun shining and few people around. If only our feet weren't so tired (we had completed 24 km walking in 7 hours), we would have spent more time walking along it. Still though, there is the trek up the hill from the village to the B&B... and then down and back again for dinner! Let's have a drink at the Pub first!

A week in wales

2005-09-24T19:48:00.000Z

0845 - Paddington Station, London
Well here we are aboard the 0845 FIRST Western train to Swansea - minus one trekking pole (the last minute search proving fruitless). Hopefullly we remembered everything else... though we already know we left the sunglasses behind (optimistically thinking that they may be important)! Well fed from the Cornish Pasty Company at Paddington, we spent the remainder of the morning reading the paper and watching the sunny skies of London cloud over on the westward trip. At Swansea we changed trains for an uneventuful trip up to Fishguard Harbour. There were plenty of sheep and green rolling pasture to admire through the hazy windows of the train.

1337 - Fishguard Harbour, Pembrokeshire
How do we get out of this station? Seems the assumption is that all passengers will board the ferry to Ireland or similar. But not us - we're here to walk the coast path from St Dogmaels to Sta Davids. The way out of the station was in fact rather easy we found... no real need for a sign pointing the direction as you just walk along the platform in the direction of the town.

Accommodation for the night is a B&B in Newport, a day's walk north of Fishguard, so the bus named the "Poppit Rocket" (for Poppit Sands, the start of the walk) was our planned mode of transport. During Summer (to end September) this excellent service ferries walkers to all the main access points of the coast path 3 times daily in each direction along the path from Poppit Sands to Fishguard. There are also sister buses named Strumble Shuttle, Puffin Shuttle etc that cover other sectors of the path. (Find out more about this service on http://www.pembrokeshiregreenways.co.uk/default/).

Unfortunately it was a bit tight to make the 1400 bus to Newport, especially since Fishguard town lies a good 20 minute walk UPHILL from the Harbour, so we took our time and settled into the Royal Oak Inn, apparently famous for a French surrender after their abortive invasion in 1797, the "Last invasion of Britain". Here we sort out our plans, read maps and play with the camera, but mostly we enjoy our "Brains " (bitter).

Later as we went for a walk down to Lower Fishguard (down a big hill) we realise that there is another bus - #412 which goes to Newport every hour, so keen to get to our day's destination, we take the next bus.

Newport seems a pleasant sort of town, but before doing any exploring, we wanted to get rid of our packs. So onward to our B&B we march... up the hill about half a mile to the welcoming Craig-y-Warw. The first of many trips up that hill!

the swimming deer

2005-08-29T16:00:00.000Z

August Bank holiday weekend 2005. We thought the summer had gone, but welcomed it back heartily for the long weekend. Whilst all other Londoners seem to pack up and leave for the country, we stayed behind for an enjoyable time of barbecues, picnics, tennis and cycling in our local environs. In the late afternoon whilst having a well earned rest break from our cycles, we parked ourselves on the bench beside Bishops pond in Richmond park, and saw something we'd never seen before.

Out of the corner of my eye I saw something moving...close, & big. To my surprise it was a Red Deer, male, with very big and sharp antlers, staring at us from about 10 metres away. He was casing us out, along with a couple of other people relaxing by the pond, and decided we were harmless and ambled down to the side of the pond for a drink...or so I thought. Not content with the drink to cool him down, he then plunged into the pond for a dip, waded around for a while, splashed himself with water and then looked for an escape route. By this time quite a crowd had gathered and there were not too many vacant spots where he could escape, though eventually he took his chance in the direction of a father & his two kids (who moved their picnic blanket very rapidly), and stopped to graze, in no hurry to move on.

Of course, none of us had our cameras to capture the moment, so to visualise this, picture a pond with one of the fine specimens on the below web pages bathing in it!

http://www.deer-uk.com/richmond.htm
http://www.atyrer.demon.co.uk/photos/deer/

Cycling london

2005-07-26T22:06:00.000Z

Last week Greg came to visit us in London owing to a work trip. We made a couple of trips to Richmond park, and on Saturday we finally took the camera along. Considering it was my first ride in a very long time, and this one lasted for 3 hours, I didn't pull up too badly.

more sun...and sunsets

2005-07-26T21:50:00.000Z

From Melbourne we headed north up to Queensland and spend a relaxing week in Hamilton Island, Airlie Beach and Seaforth.

A golden day

2005-07-23T18:51:00.000Z

Saturday 14 May 2005 was Tom's Mum & Dad's 50th wedding anniversary and the Murphy and Kennedy clans all converged on St Mary's school hall in Altona to celebrate. A good time was had by all, and it was a great opportunity to meet all those cousins, aunties & uncles I'd never met.

Also whilst we were in Melbourne we managed to fit in our favourite afternoon drive down to Barwon Heads... a bit of a SeaChange!

Mother's Day

2005-07-23T18:19:00.000Z

Mother's Day May 8, 2005 and another great family BBQ. Good Food & Good wine (thanks Claire!) and great for us all to be together.

Sunsets in Sydney

2005-07-23T18:04:00.000Z

In May 2005 Tom and I went home to Australia to see family & friends. First stop was Sydney where all the classical icons were in great form.

Starved of Sun after our fifth London winter we were hopeful of some fine weather, despite our arrival well after the official end of summer. And we were not to be disappointed... 3 weeks in Australia, 1 or 2 cloudy days, and rain only for about 30 minutes... what more could we ask for?

Welcome to Shellshock's website

2005-07-23T07:52:00.000Z

My brother Greg helped me set up my webpage, so that you can see what I've been up to. He also chose the picture and wrote this message for me.